Newbie questions.

[TwilightSparkle]

Not sure if this is where to post this but I have some newbie questions.

I just got my first Syrian hamster (long haird) I think hes about 7 weeks old.

1: how do I tame him so I can hold/pet him? He will let me touch him and will take food from and sniff/lick at my hand and he doesn't really act very scared unless I move too fast but I don't want to go straight to trying to handle him and scare him.

2: what is the best diet for him to be on? He is currently on Kaytee fiesta food. And also what i kind of treats and other things can he have and how much and often?

3: I heard wire cages can be dangerous because they can climb and fall. I didn't want him to fall and splat on the ground so hes in a big bin cage with a wire top i bought to fit. I was just wondering if i have to worry about him climbing on hides and things and falling. Like how high is too dangerous for something to be he could possibly climb on?

4: how often do I clean out his bedding completely? Im doing spot cleanings when needed now but how often do I give completely fresh bedding? I heard it can stress them if they can no longer smell their scent in their cage so not to completely clean it too often but I don't know if thats true or not.

5: when I feed him he takes a lot of his food and buries it. Do I just leave it? Or what.. I don't know if it will make it messy in there or if I should just leave his food stash alone.

6: what else can I put in there for bedding enrichment? Like Timothy hay or cardboard or something.. i don't want to put anything in there that will hurt him.

 

[Maz]

Hi - it’s great you’re wanting everything right for him

1. General thing is leave him alone for the first two or three days to settle. After that it usually takes 10 days to two weeks before they’re fully adjusted to the new environment and confident in the enclosure - so you could start with offering him treats and talking to him so he gets familiar with you. Stroking and handling is best done out of the enclosure as they behave differently. The enclosure is their territory. But again it’s best to wait the 10 days to two weeks before getting him out for taming time - unless he shows dead keen to want to be out before then.

2. Kaytee Firsta isn’t a great option - of the commercial mixes, Higgins Vita Garden is probably the best option - it’s sugar free and has the right nutrition except I think the protein might be a bit low but you can supplement that with fresh food extras (which ties in with treats ). Eg chipped hard boiled egg - the occasional half walnut - or you can get freeze dried chicken bites. Some people get “home made” mixes from Etsy which have more variety but they can be expensive and ideally you’d want to supplement with science selective pellets then to ensure the correct nutrition. There are no fortified vitamins in those. Technically it should be ok but it depends what the protein source is.

3. Wire/barred cages are fine - as long as they’re not too tall and plenty of bedding . All enclosure types have their pros and cons. A bin cage is fine if it’s large enough - you’d need at least a 200 quart bin probably . The depth is as important as the length - and it will need a secure meshed lid - because otherwise he will escape! They are very savvy - if there’s no lid he could just push all the bedding into one corner to make a mountain/ramp and just walk up it and climb out! Assume you’re in the US? The main issue with barred cages for the US is there are hardly any big enough. The exotic nutrition Zanzibar (aka prevue) is the smallest you’d want / the Omlet cage is bigger than that but a bit expensive. Otherwise people use things like glass tanks or enclosures like the niteangel ones (also expensive).

 

[Maz]

4. I’ll link our cage cleaning tips below

5. Should be covered in the cage cleaning tips article.

6. Enrichment - hamsters don’t need hay. Which can be poky as well. Variety of textures and contents creates the enrichment - including enough deep bedding. Paper bedding is preferable - pine shavings aren’t safe in the US usually. So 6 to 8” paper bedding ideally - maybe a dig box with an alternative substrate (eg cork granules) - a dig box can be any container - cardboard box - old ice cream tub. A shelf or platform (something to sit under or climb onto and also a good place to put heavier ceramic items so they don’t sink in the substrate). And a large house or hide - something that’s dark inside for them to nest in or under. Plus smaller hides and tunnels at floor level (these can be something like a tissue box or Pringles tube - you don’t have to buy a lot of expensive items (and a sand bath. Have also linked our budget set up article! With links and suggestions.

Hamster cage cleaning

Tips on how to clean your hamster cage and avoid causing stress to your hamster. It's best to have plenty of depth of substrate and mainly spot clean your hamster cage. Avoid disturbing your hamster's nest and hoard.

www.thehamsterforum.com

Hamster cage set up on a budget

How to set up a hamster cage or enclosure on a budget in 2025 and give your hamster a good home. Hint - cardboard is your friend. Our hamster site and forum will give friendly advice on everything you need for your hamster enclosure or cage...

www.thehamsterforum.com

 

[Tulsi]

Oooo I love long haired syrian hamsters and have had quite a few in my time. I currently have a dwarf hamster called Cindy.