Hi folks. Here is Kage - with a K.

[Maz]

Having said all that - I'm talking about Syrian hamsters there. Some robos and dwarf hamsters do come out in the day - they vary.

 

[Rescued One]

It’s a bit more than coming out when there’s less chance of predators . They have very unusual eyes - it’s quite scientific - Syrian hamsters have an abundance of rods and only one cone in their eyes - as such they see better in the dark and their eyes are genetically wired to cope with low light. I will have to look up the research and link it on here as it’s very interesting. They also have certain biorhythms that can affect their general health - and make them super active at night.

So they need to be awake in the dark and asleep during the day. However, as pets, they can adjust to getting up earlier in the evening especially when they want out of cage time.

It’s why it’s usually recommended to have the lights go out around the same time every night. However I don’t think that’s a hard and fast rule because they do adjust to our routines.

I had one super active male Syrisn who would come out to free roam at about 11pm at night and would happily be up for hours , even with the lights on - he often kept me up until 3am! Although it was dim lighting. That is not common for male Syrians though - they tend to be more shy/lazy.

But he will be coming out less at night because you’re there

So once he’s been with you about two weeks, you could offer him a tube to walk into with a smelly treat at the far end (eg cucumber) when he gets up for his veg. Maybe 11pm? Or you can get them getting up earlier by having feeding time say 9pm at night. They get in a routine of getting up for food when they hear the noises - cage door opening, rustling noises and the smell of the veg.

And that’s the time you can offer a tube/taxi to take them to a playpen or the dry bathtub for some taming and socialising time

Once they get in the habit of that they usually want to come out and will always walk into a tube - you kind of train them to always walk into a tube.

Then you can have out of cage time with him maybe between 9pm and 11pm and then you have a night’s sleep and him have his wild night time wheel running session - then you can see him early in the morning for breakfast . Some hamsters are still awake at 7am and most at 6am and might even want to come out again then or you can enjoy a bit of breakfast and give him some

Having said that there is nothing wrong with what you’re doing now - except you’ll maybe end up seeing him less in the long run - either way they do well with a routine - that is kind of training them as well.

He is still very young and building in confidence . It’s sometimes not until they are a few months old that they get more active or boisterous, but they also all have their individual personalities as well - which is really nice.

There has been much debate over red lights. Hamsters can’t see the colour red. However they can still see light! They know when it’s not dark. They are virtually colour blind but apparently can see blue and green a bit.

The reason their scent marking is so important (they scent mark everything in their cage) is because they don’t see well - so they find their way around by following scent trails. And it’s why they don’t like things being moved around or changed much. Because they can’t follow their scent trails. Ideally they like everything to remain in exactly the same place. That isn’t always possible and as they get older they do accept the odd thing having to be replaced but it’s best avoided. They don’t like change in their environment.

Likewise we do need to spot clean their pee (if they don’t use a toilet) which bothers them but it can also help them get into better peeing habits (eg peeing in a litter tray!). And with spot cleaning you can go a long time without having to do a bigger clean. The key is not to clean everything at the same time. Maybe the wheel one week and anything else a different week.

Hamsters are actually very clean little things - and quite fussy. The only unhygienic thing is their pee. Some hamsters will actually chuck out a pile of soiled bedding and leave it by the cage door for you to take away! It’s a bit like - I don’t like you messing with my cage so here you are I’ve done it for you

I think you’re doing great - he is taking treats from you and even coming out and running in his wheel while you’re there. And it’s very early days.

It’s so hard when we want to interact with them and have to be patient. I think he is already getting to know you. It’s partly familiarisation and partly trust. The trust builds once you start having out of cage time and some handling.

As regards noises - they soon get used to various noises around the house so don’t worry about that - not only do they get used to them but it helps them know when you’re around. They also adjust to the tv being on (there are photos on here of hamsters watching tv . Or at least sitting looking at it.

As regards light - they are ok with dim lighting - eg lamps - they don’t like very bright lighting - you can almost see them cringe from it. Likewise photos without flash are best.

But they do need some part of each day in the dark - it’s why they sleep in the darkest place possible and come out after dark. For their biorhythms.

It’s time and patience - and one day he’ll be sitting next to you on the sofa or falling asleep on your lap. Or - if he’s a more maverick personality, he will at least sit for a stroke for 10 seconds and interact with you in different ways (looking for your approval etc).

Sometimes the shy ones are the ones that end up being the most affectionate.

My 2 hammies are different as night and day. Peanut was owned by a younger boy and family before surrender and he has a set schedule: up around 6:30-7 pm and will be up on my work days at 5:15 am because he wants his treats and playpen time. Luna, a rescue I have had since 3 months old, is a night owl I have to start rousing around 8 pm so she can do her grooming ritual and maybe get into her playpen by 8:30 pm. Left to her own devices, she would not surface until 10:30-11 pm and would sleep in every morning. She has been conditioned that, after a series of 3 taps and her song x 3 rounds, that I will be digging her out and will have treats ready as a consolation prize
I would start treating Kage with a hand in the cage and I would come up with a specific signal that lets Kage know it's treats and playtime and don't be afraid to stick a treat into his hide entrance to entice him out.
Lastly, since hammie eyes are so different, he may be confused by the red lights and be off his normal day/night cycle. There are several science articles that state that hamsters are dinural (dawn/dusk) in the wild, and more nocturnal in captivity.
Good luck!

 

[Kage]

I clean Socks' tunnels and nest once a week, as near to dinner time as possible, and have to dig him up to do this. He is over two years old though and sleeps much more than a young ham. His pee area is underground and I think his kidneys are getting weaker, so the bedding is usually quite damp, as is his sand based litter tray on the surface. He goes back to sleep in a carrier while I clean, nodding off straight away. But when he was young, he was up practically all night gnawing the bars and climbing up to the roof He still likes to visit the playpen and runs on his wheel while I sit and watch him.

Over the weekend I'm going to set up his play pen and try to get him in it. I'm thinking of using a large coffee jar - empty and clean! - with a slice of banana at the bottom. If anything will tempt him in, I think banana will. He'll have some activities in the pen to keep him occupied while I give his home a clean and hopefully get the second extension installed aswell. Then he will have the recommended floor space - and more - 5,800 plus. I want the best for my little Kage, the best I can give him.

It’s a bit more than coming out when there’s less chance of predators . They have very unusual eyes - it’s quite scientific - Syrian hamsters have an abundance of rods and only one cone in their eyes - as such they see better in the dark and their eyes are genetically wired to cope with low light. I will have to look up the research and link it on here as it’s very interesting. They also have certain biorhythms that can affect their general health - and make them super active at night.

So they need to be awake in the dark and asleep during the day. However, as pets, they can adjust to getting up earlier in the evening especially when they want out of cage time.

It’s why it’s usually recommended to have the lights go out around the same time every night. However I don’t think that’s a hard and fast rule because they do adjust to our routines.

I had one super active male Syrisn who would come out to free roam at about 11pm at night and would happily be up for hours , even with the lights on - he often kept me up until 3am! Although it was dim lighting. That is not common for male Syrians though - they tend to be more shy/lazy.

But he will be coming out less at night because you’re there

So once he’s been with you about two weeks, you could offer him a tube to walk into with a smelly treat at the far end (eg cucumber) when he gets up for his veg. Maybe 11pm? Or you can get them getting up earlier by having feeding time say 9pm at night. They get in a routine of getting up for food when they hear the noises - cage door opening, rustling noises and the smell of the veg.

And that’s the time you can offer a tube/taxi to take them to a playpen or the dry bathtub for some taming and socialising time

Once they get in the habit of that they usually want to come out and will always walk into a tube - you kind of train them to always walk into a tube.

Then you can have out of cage time with him maybe between 9pm and 11pm and then you have a night’s sleep and him have his wild night time wheel running session - then you can see him early in the morning for breakfast . Some hamsters are still awake at 7am and most at 6am and might even want to come out again then or you can enjoy a bit of breakfast and give him some

Having said that there is nothing wrong with what you’re doing now - except you’ll maybe end up seeing him less in the long run - either way they do well with a routine - that is kind of training them as well.

He is still very young and building in confidence . It’s sometimes not until they are a few months old that they get more active or boisterous, but they also all have their individual personalities as well - which is really nice.

There has been much debate over red lights. Hamsters can’t see the colour red. However they can still see light! They know when it’s not dark. They are virtually colour blind but apparently can see blue and green a bit.

The reason their scent marking is so important (they scent mark everything in their cage) is because they don’t see well - so they find their way around by following scent trails. And it’s why they don’t like things being moved around or changed much. Because they can’t follow their scent trails. Ideally they like everything to remain in exactly the same place. That isn’t always possible and as they get older they do accept the odd thing having to be replaced but it’s best avoided. They don’t like change in their environment.

Likewise we do need to spot clean their pee (if they don’t use a toilet) which bothers them but it can also help them get into better peeing habits (eg peeing in a litter tray!). And with spot cleaning you can go a long time without having to do a bigger clean. The key is not to clean everything at the same time. Maybe the wheel one week and anything else a different week.

Hamsters are actually very clean little things - and quite fussy. The only unhygienic thing is their pee. Some hamsters will actually chuck out a pile of soiled bedding and leave it by the cage door for you to take away! It’s a bit like - I don’t like you messing with my cage so here you are I’ve done it for you

I think you’re doing great - he is taking treats from you and even coming out and running in his wheel while you’re there. And it’s very early days.

It’s so hard when we want to interact with them and have to be patient. I think he is already getting to know you. It’s partly familiarisation and partly trust. The trust builds once you start having out of cage time and some handling.

As regards noises - they soon get used to various noises around the house so don’t worry about that - not only do they get used to them but it helps them know when you’re around. They also adjust to the tv being on (there are photos on here of hamsters watching tv . Or at least sitting looking at it.

As regards light - they are ok with dim lighting - eg lamps - they don’t like very bright lighting - you can almost see them cringe from it. Likewise photos without flash are best.

But they do need some part of each day in the dark - it’s why they sleep in the darkest place possible and come out after dark. For their biorhythms.

It’s time and patience - and one day he’ll be sitting next to you on the sofa or falling asleep on your lap. Or - if he’s a more maverick personality, he will at least sit for a stroke for 10 seconds and interact with you in different ways (looking for your approval etc).

Sometimes the shy ones are the ones that end up being the most affectionate.

That is some information you have given me, and thanks for the confidence boost. I'm taking note of every piece of information and advice I get. I can only do my best and hope it's good enough for my little companion, and that he will learn to trust me more as time goes on. Changing my routine to suit his is something I'm happy to do. I do feed him each night at 9pm, I put his veg out at that time, but that doesn't tempt him out. Of course I'll keep trying. I don't know - perhaps he's developing a strong personality all his own, perhaps he'll meet me half way in time. Whatever happens, he can rest assured he'll be loved and cared for always Now on to tonight and see what's in store for the two of us.

 

[Kage]

My 2 hammies are different as night and day. Peanut was owned by a younger boy and family before surrender and he has a set schedule: up around 6:30-7 pm and will be up on my work days at 5:15 am because he wants his treats and playpen time. Luna, a rescue I have had since 3 months old, is a night owl I have to start rousing around 8 pm so she can do her grooming ritual and maybe get into her playpen by 8:30 pm. Left to her own devices, she would not surface until 10:30-11 pm and would sleep in every morning. She has been conditioned that, after a series of 3 taps and her song x 3 rounds, that I will be digging her out and will have treats ready as a consolation prize
I would start treating Kage with a hand in the cage and I would come up with a specific signal that lets Kage know it's treats and playtime and don't be afraid to stick a treat into his hide entrance to entice him out.
Lastly, since hammie eyes are so different, he may be confused by the red lights and be off his normal day/night cycle. There are several science articles that state that hamsters are dinural (dawn/dusk) in the wild, and more nocturnal in captivity.
Good luck!

My 2 hammies are different as night and day. Peanut was owned by a younger boy and family before surrender and he has a set schedule: up around 6:30-7 pm and will be up on my work days at 5:15 am because he wants his treats and playpen time. Luna, a rescue I have had since 3 months old, is a night owl I have to start rousing around 8 pm so she can do her grooming ritual and maybe get into her playpen by 8:30 pm. Left to her own devices, she would not surface until 10:30-11 pm and would sleep in every morning. She has been conditioned that, after a series of 3 taps and her song x 3 rounds, that I will be digging her out and will have treats ready as a consolation prize
I would start treating Kage with a hand in the cage and I would come up with a specific signal that lets Kage know it's treats and playtime and don't be afraid to stick a treat into his hide entrance to entice him out.
Lastly, since hammie eyes are so different, he may be confused by the red lights and be off his normal day/night cycle. There are several science articles that state that hamsters are dinural (dawn/dusk) in the wild, and more nocturnal in captivity.
Good luck!

I really do appreciate the responses I am getting. Thank you all. Can I ask, what lighting do you use? I did read that red lighting would be suitable, but I'm open to other ideas. I do want Kage to feel comfortable. Secondly, doesn't Luna object to be dug out if she's sleeping? I see you have a system to let her know what you'll be doing, so that's another idea I could try. Again open to ideas, but my sole concern is for Kage's welfare and happiness. I want him to have as natural a life as possible.

 

[Maz]

Personally I would tempt them out rather than dig them out, but every hamster is different Some will respond in different ways to others.

How long have you had him now? It'll give an idea what to do for the next stage and when

I'm not quite sure what you mean about what kind of lighting. Here it's either lights on or lights off!

 

[Kage]

Personally I would tempt them out rather than dig them out, but every hamster is different Some will respond in different ways to others.

How long have you had him now? It'll give an idea what to do for the next stage and when

I'm not quite sure what you mean about what kind of lighting. Here it's either lights on or lights off!

I've already made my mind up to tempt him out rather than digging him out. That does seem a little invasive to me.

I've had him two weeks now. Tomorrow night, I'm going to give his home a spot clean, and his main hideout - the Sovereign Suite - needs straightening up due to subsidence brought on by Kage's digging . I don't intend disturbing him unduly, but I do need to clean round a little.

As for the lighting - I mean are normal light bulbs okay, or are the red ones better? The red bulbs I have in are quite dim, but I suppose I could always fit a dimmer switch if I change them for normal light bulbs.

I'd looked in to having a hamster before I made the plunge, but I didn't realise just how much is involved, but I'm loving every second having him, and finding out about him, and learning the right and wrong ways to look after him.

I will set up his play pen before I do anything and hopefully I can get him into his taxi and let him have some play time while I'm busy.

 

[Maz]

It's very tempting for us to tidy up their mess I'd suggest, for this first spot clean, to just remove the pee area (ie any soggy substrate) and leave it at that. Obviously if his digging is blocking the wheel and stopping it spinning, then it would need a bit of sorting This is to avoid any setbacks in the early stages, although he will get used to it. If you're not sure where he's peeing, you might need to feel around under the substrate a bit. But spot cleaning is literally just taking out a handful of pee'd on substrate and replacing it with a new handful and mixing it in. Just saying don't go overboard this first time or it may put him off coming out of the cage again!

It's always difficult to know whether to do the spot cleaning while they're in the cage or out of it. Generally I do it while they're in the cage so they can see what you're doing and keep an eye on things. Because if they come back after out of cage time and find it's been done, it's shock horror! But some of that depends on the hamster. Some hamsters will get too agitated if you do while they're in there, and then they're better out of the cage when it's done. Others get more agitated the other way round.

Other than that spot cleaning is just picking out the odd poop on top of the substrate, if they start taking over a bit. The occasional poop lying around is ok. They can actually eat their poops, which is normal (they have two stomachs and can re digest nutrients from the poops). So taking all of them would be stealing

Sorry I see what you mean about lighting now I just have normal light bulbs but have lamps rather than bright overhead lights.

 

[Kage]

It's very tempting for us to tidy up their mess I'd suggest, for this first spot clean, to just remove the pee area (ie any soggy substrate) and leave it at that. Obviously if his digging is blocking the wheel and stopping it spinning, then it would need a bit of sorting This is to avoid any setbacks in the early stages, although he will get used to it. If you're not sure where he's peeing, you might need to feel around under the substrate a bit. But spot cleaning is literally just taking out a handful of pee'd on substrate and replacing it with a new handful and mixing it in. Just saying don't go overboard this first time or it may put him off coming out of the cage again!

It's always difficult to know whether to do the spot cleaning while they're in the cage or out of it. Generally I do it while they're in the cage so they can see what you're doing and keep an eye on things. Because if they come back after out of cage time and find it's been done, it's shock horror! But some of that depends on the hamster. Some hamsters will get too agitated if you do while they're in there, and then they're better out of the cage when it's done. Others get more agitated the other way round.

Other than that spot cleaning is just picking out the odd poop on top of the substrate, if they start taking over a bit. The occasional poop lying around is ok. They can actually eat their poops, which is normal (they have two stomachs and can re digest nutrients from the poops). So taking all of them would be stealing

Sorry I see what you mean about lighting now I just have normal light bulbs but have lamps rather than bright overhead lights.

Okay, so minimum disruption for the little man. I'll leave him where he is, but I have to lift the Sovereign Suite - his main hideout - away to be able to do any cleaning at all. I think he will be underground then, BUT I still may need to disturb him to get to the wet bedding. Other than that, I'll leave everything alone. No play pen tonight, but that will give me a chance to get one or two more enrichments to put in it ready for when he does come out. And definitely no new extension! What he doesn't have he won't miss .

The light finally came on, did it? Maybe I didn't explain myself very well. I'm good at that.

I didn't see him again last night. I turned off the lights and all was dark and quiet, but I stayed sat, rather lying next to his home (I prefer calling it his home rather than cage) and, yes, out he came, and on his wheel. I expect he drank and ate and stocked his pantry up as usual, but apart from hearing him on his wheel I heard nothing else. I went to bed at 3am and left him to his own devices. He had his jam jar lid of veggie to enjoy and a couple of mealworms I left on his doorstep, but of course he didn't get his usual treat from me through the bars. I missed doing that, it's the only interaction I have with him so far.

 

[Maz]

It is tricky when the pee under the house - which is the usual thing. What type of house is it? Does the roof come off? That can be handy rather than having to take the whole house out. Or - you could feel around under the bedding under the house - but that might disturb more than intended.

So if it means lifting the house out, then yes it might be better done when he's out of the cage! Some people actually take a photo of the set up before doing any cleaning, to make sure they get everything back in the right place I once had the house a bit closer to the back than it had been before, after taking it out to do a clean at that end (that was for a "proper" one third cage clean while the hamster was in the playpen - an older hamster). And when the hamster went back he was not happy at all! Apparently I had closed a gap he liked to go down at that end of the house and restricted his passage! So I had to try and move it a bit further away again - then he was happy. It was only about 1cm out!

 

[Kage]

It is tricky when the pee under the house - which is the usual thing. What type of house is it? Does the roof come off? That can be handy rather than having to take the whole house out. Or - you could feel around under the bedding under the house - but that might disturb more than intended.

So if it means lifting the house out, then yes it might be better done when he's out of the cage! Some people actually take a photo of the set up before doing any cleaning, to make sure they get everything back in the right place I once had the house a bit closer to the back than it had been before, after taking it out to do a clean at that end (that was for a "proper" one third cage clean while the hamster was in the playpen - an older hamster). And when the hamster went back he was not happy at all! Apparently I had closed a gap he liked to go down at that end of the house and restricted his passage! So I had to try and move it a bit further away again - then he was happy. It was only about 1cm out!

It's a three room corner house, an L shape. The roof will come off but it is on quite firmly. There is no bottom to it, so lifting the whole thing will be a lot less troublesome. If the wet bedding is near the bottom, I won't be able to get my hand right through the hideout anyway, so I don't have much choice. So what to do? Leave Kage in or take him out - if he'll come, that is.

Kage has been digging, probably tunnelling at one end, and the house is down at that end, and the room full of bedding, so whatever I do I have to be careful.

 

[Rescued One]

Okay, so minimum disruption for the little man. I'll leave him where he is, but I have to lift the Sovereign Suite - his main hideout - away to be able to do any cleaning at all. I think he will be underground then, BUT I still may need to disturb him to get to the wet bedding. Other than that, I'll leave everything alone. No play pen tonight, but that will give me a chance to get one or two more enrichments to put in it ready for when he does come out. And definitely no new extension! What he doesn't have he won't miss .

The light finally came on, did it? Maybe I didn't explain myself very well. I'm good at that.

I didn't see him again last night. I turned off the lights and all was dark and quiet, but I stayed sat, rather lying next to his home (I prefer calling it his home rather than cage) and, yes, out he came, and on his wheel. I expect he drank and ate and stocked his pantry up as usual, but apart from hearing him on his wheel I heard nothing else. I went to bed at 3am and left him to his own devices. He had his jam jar lid of veggie to enjoy and a couple of mealworms I left on his doorstep, but of course he didn't get his usual treat from me through the bars. I missed doing that, it's the only interaction I have with him so far.

Here are some articles about red light that may help you decide about lighting https://news.osu.edu/what-color-is-...re kept,closely by those exposed to red light. and https://articles.hepper.com/hamster-eyesight/
I would suggest hand feeding veggies as well to improve socialization.

 

[Socks' Mum]

The multi chamber houses made by Happy Henry are great. They stand on long legs so are supported by the cage base and won't fall onto the hamster if he tunnels under the walls.

 

[Maz]

I just had a look at your cage photo again and can see the house It looks very nice. Firstly I'd say - don't worry too much about it. Even after two weeks, with that much bedding, if you can't smell any pee then it won't be that bad He will most likely be peeing away from where he's sleeping. Their instinct in the wild is to have separate "chambers" in their burrows for sleeping, hoarding and toiletting. Although not all hamsters get that right straight away! But I think most do.

Secondly, looking at your photo, I'd be inclined to leave the house in (it can be quite a fiddle putting them back again if they're on legs or stilts), and I know what you mean about trying to spot clean through the top of the house via the rooms. I have done that (because I know where one of my hamsters pees and which room to start digging out under!), and it's awkward but possible.

So if the house is supported underneath on legs, you could just leave it in place. And then put your hand under the substrate just outside the house and start feeling around that area and underneath the house. Until you find a damp soggy part, then grab a couple of handfuls of that to remove. If you find it! Sometimes it takes a while to find out where they're peeing and he might be doing it at the other end of the cage under his wheel or something! If he's just using the house as a kind of "porch" to emerge from his tunnels to a burrow somewhere else.

However if the house isn't supported on legs and is just sat on top of the substrate, then yes I can see the easiest thing would be to lift the house out and check all the bedding depth in that area. However ideally it should be on legs so it doesn't sink if tunnelled under (which could potentially squash the hamster even though it looks quite light - some are lighter than others).

What we try to do though, if possible, ideally, is not destroy their burrows and tunnels while spot cleaning for pee - sometimes it's not possible to avoid doing that while looking for a pee area. But feeling around under the substrate can sometimes do less demolition than just scooping out all the substrate under the house.

See how you get on! If you do the feeling around under the substrate, you could maybe do that while he's in the cage. I think if you're going to lift the house out and do it that way it would be better if he's out of the cage. Hope that helps!

 

[Kage]

Here are some articles about red light that may help you decide about lighting https://news.osu.edu/what-color-is-your-night-light-it-may-affect-your-mood/#:~:text=Results showed that hamsters that were kept,closely by those exposed to red light. and https://articles.hepper.com/hamster-eyesight/
I would suggest hand feeding veggies as well to improve socialization.

Thanks for that. Interesting articles.

 

[Kage]

I just had a look at your cage photo again and can see the house It looks very nice. Firstly I'd say - don't worry too much about it. Even after two weeks, with that much bedding, if you can't smell any pee then it won't be that bad He will most likely be peeing away from where he's sleeping. Their instinct in the wild is to have separate "chambers" in their burrows for sleeping, hoarding and toiletting. Although not all hamsters get that right straight away! But I think most do.

Secondly, looking at your photo, I'd be inclined to leave the house in (it can be quite a fiddle putting them back again if they're on legs or stilts), and I know what you mean about trying to spot clean through the top of the house via the rooms. I have done that (because I know where one of my hamsters pees and which room to start digging out under!), and it's awkward but possible.

So if the house is supported underneath on legs, you could just leave it in place. And then put your hand under the substrate just outside the house and start feeling around that area and underneath the house. Until you find a damp soggy part, then grab a couple of handfuls of that to remove. If you find it! Sometimes it takes a while to find out where they're peeing and he might be doing it at the other end of the cage under his wheel or something! If he's just using the house as a kind of "porch" to emerge from his tunnels to a burrow somewhere else.

However if the house isn't supported on legs and is just sat on top of the substrate, then yes I can see the easiest thing would be to lift the house out and check all the bedding depth in that area. However ideally it should be on legs so it doesn't sink if tunnelled under (which could potentially squash the hamster even though it looks quite light - some are lighter than others).

What we try to do though, if possible, ideally, is not destroy their burrows and tunnels while spot cleaning for pee - sometimes it's not possible to avoid doing that while looking for a pee area. But feeling around under the substrate can sometimes do less demolition than just scooping out all the substrate under the house.

See how you get on! If you do the feeling around under the substrate, you could maybe do that while he's in the cage. I think if you're going to lift the house out and do it that way it would be better if he's out of the cage. Hope that helps!

I've thought long and hard how best to do this. No, I can't smell anything unfamiliar, but a little spot clean wouldn't hurt, and the sooner I get the first one done, the sooner Kage and I will get used to it being done.

The house isn't on legs and that's why one end has dropped into the bedding. I will be making a platform with legs but with a cut out middle so he can still burrow underneath it and the house stay level and on top of the bedding. This is something that hadn't occurred to me setting up his home. I didn't foresee a problem. Isn't afterthought a wonderful thing?

I will be doing this tonight. I don't want to put it off any longer. I will very gently lift the house out of the way. I still think Kage will be burrowed underneath somewhere. I'll find out for sure tonight, but we both have to get used to these 'intrusions', as much as I hate to think of upsetting him.

With all the advice in the world, I have to make a decision. I have made mine for right or wrong. Fingers crossed

I didn't see him at all last night. At 1am I turned off the lamp, we were in complete darkness, it was quiet, and I stayed for an hour. Sure enough, out he came, and he spent a good while on his wheel, coming back to it several times. I retired at 2am

It is oh so tempting to put a lamp on again to see him, but that will not happen. I'm not out to disturb him any more than I need to, and certainly not just for my own benefit. Kage and I are like two peas in a pod - we both like our "me time" and enjoy our solitude. I have to hope in time, we will be able to spend some time together


Kage and

 

[Socks' Mum]

Have might become more tolerant of a little light once he has settled in. My curtains are open all night and it's enough to see Socks in his play pen and to feed him a treat