Hamster losing fur on rear and neck :(

It's an exotic vet, at least the clinic claims to treat all animals and people have reported taking their little ones there.

I'm also curious as to the treatment plans and it could be that either the vet has seen these are more beneficial in their rodents or just a lack of experience which would be unfortunate.

I'm not sure about cushing's, she does seem to be losing more and more fur and has some spots on her hips and on her neck and upper arms now. Her skin is red and inflamed, the poor baby.
 
I do remember the vet saying something about it being difficult to administer something like ivermectin so often and especially with my little girl since she is extremely squirmy and fiesty; and I looked it up and dosing in ivermectin is very important or else it could cause bad side effects. She was also extremely stressed out from being handled in the vet's office and it took her a day or two to calm down, so that level of frequent handling would have been impractical.

I did a lot of taming with her when I first got her, but she still won't sit still, she's an escape artist. She only bites if she feels threatened or if there's food smell on your hand, and even now she only slowly closes her mouth on my finger seeing if I will notice first, lol!! biggg personality but sadly not a cuddler.

Anyway, the vet may have felt a single 60-day application of bravecto was more likely to work. I am very inattentive and sometimes I neglect to write things down especially if I am stressed and tired, but I do remember him mentioning easier administration.

As for the TMPS i'm not sure, but a quick google search and it popped up as one of the ones used to treat hamsters. The 2x day oral dose seems to defeat the purpose of limited handling but I think that's the only option if there is a bacterial infection, so I will get creative with how to give it to her.

Thank you guys so much for your help and support along the way, and hoping my little Jo starts to feel better from these treatments. If not, I'll try to keep her as comfortable as possible so she lives her best life for the rest of it. 🧡 I'll keep you all posted!

One more thing - I have a wooden Niteangel bridge thing lengthwise across her cage to allow her to climb to the top without falling down, as when she was little she'd climb up to the top and then just plummet. I took it out for a bit since I was worried about mites living in it but now I am just worried she'll injure herself more so I put it back in. I cleaned it twice with apple cider vinegar and left in the sun to dry - i can't bake it because it has metal hooks. Should I just get rid of this and find an alternative or do you think spraying it every so often with the apple cider vinegar will suffice? There are little holes where the pieces of wood connect that mites could probably burrow if they felt like it. Then again, they could live in her bedding or practically anywhere at this point.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for explaining all that - that makes some sense :-) If your hamster is hard to handle and there is something else that will; do the job. I actually think vets are a bit casual about prescribing invermectin in the Uk sometimes. I'm not sure of the dose myself but for a Robo I had, the dose was two drops on the back of the neck, just once, then repeat a week later and that was it. But for a Syrian it would be a bigger dose and maybe difficult to get right if she wriggles a lot, yes. And Invermectin is toxic if overdosed. It could take swaddling or scruffing a wriggly hamster, to apply the correct dosage. But it is anti parasitic. I assume the vet knows if the other treatment was suitable for demodex mites or not though.

Going back to her cage - if she does have mites then it may be that your clean out wasn't a full one, - so it's possible they started up again.

I'm not convinced that apple cider vinegar would be enough to kill demodex mites. It is usually a heat above a certain temperature that kills the mites and eggs, or certain types of disinfectant (hamster safe disinfectant). In the same way, white vinegar will kill some bacteria but not all and is more of a cleaner than a disinfectant.

It is hard to know what stage things are at, but if she didn't have a complete full cage clean before then it's possible she has got mites back again from something in the cage. On the other hand if you do a full cage clean now, and the treatment isn't working as she got them back again ......

It's difficult. Do you have a spare cage? I'm wondering if you should set up a spare cage with new bedding and bake or disinfect any current items to put in it and see how she goes in that. Alternatively do a full cage clean now - it's so hard and unfair but once it's over you know everything is done. So to ensure the cage is mite free, everything needs removing, The enclosure itself cleaned out with a small animal-safe disinfectant - maybe F10 or similar - but don't use bleach. Making sure you get it into any corners and crevices - is it a glass tank or a wood enclosure? Does it have a wood or metal lid? That needs spraying with disinfectant too.

Then all new bedding. Ceramic or plastic items can just be cleaned with the disinfectant. Wood items can be baked at 100 degrees centigrade. But as you say, anything with metal can't really be baked. Do you have a photo of the bridge? I can't imagine one with metal ends :-) I have a couple and
I'm not entirely sure how they're held together. But if they have metal inside .........

It would be a shame to throw it away when they're not cheap, but I wouldn't re-use it for now. You could maybe soak it in disinfectant and then rinse it and leave it to dry and put it away somewhere? I would probably throw it personally but then I'd be a bit paranoid about them coming back! Having had moth outbreaks myself. With tiny microscopic mites and eggs they can be tucked away in the tiniest of crevices.

With my wood house I sprayed disinfectant well into the corners and joints. It didn't fall apart! That was smooth wood though, not rough wood.

Anyway if you do have a spare cage, she will need to go somewhere while you do the full cage clean - unless you can get it done in a day and then she could just go in a pet carrier for the day and sleep in it.

It does sound as if either the treatment isn't working, if they've come back, and it was diagnosed as mites in the first place, or they were still in the cage and came back and the treatment wasn't enough to prevent that - I think it takes both at the same time.

So it's tricky at the moment. If you do the full cage clean now and the treatment isn't working, it will need doing again as the mites will get from her to the cage contents again and vice versa.

I think I would be tempted to be asking for more mite treatment now and give it will she's out of the cage in the temporary enclosure, while you do a full cage clean the first day.

Is there something else you could use instead of the bridge? I had to throw away a lot of items once and replaced them mainly with cardboard and ceramic items for a while, that could easily be replaced or disinfected. How is she climbing to the top? Is it a barred cage?

If you have a photo of her cage, it might help suggest something. Barred cages can be a pig to disinfect!

When I had a moth outbreak, it was getting rid of the eggs that was the main issue (not visible to the naked eye) and my vet recommended soaking the cage in a bath of beaphar disinfectant. That wasn't actually possible because the cage wouldn't fit in the bath and it would have taken a ton of disinfectant, so I sprayed it thoroughly, making sure the bars were full covered all the way round and in all the corners, left it on for a while then rinsed it off with water with a shower head. It seemed to do the trick!

I have to say though that Invermectin is the standard treatment for mites. People can actually buy it online, but it's not really recommended to do that and better to get it prescribed by a vet in the correct dosage.
 
Last edited:
IMG_1099.png

this is an old picture - in the car right now. the base is a sturdy thick plastic material and the top is metal bars.

all of the wooden things i've taken out except that little ledge up on the top right because she'd periodically climb up there and fall and at least that prevents some of it. The top is a bit higher up than the picture shows so I'm worried about her falling especially since I have less bedding now since I'll be changing it more often. She has a bigger wheel now as well so she can stretch out more and not scratch her fur on anything, she's a big girl

Platform and ramp in the back are gone because they're also wooden and had holes/screws. and no sand bath anymore

I'm planning on cleaning her cage weekly for the time being, I don't have a spare cage but I do have a small pet carrier or a big plastic bin she can stay in while I clean it, shouldn't take me more than an hour when I do.

What spray did you use? Trying to find something affordable I can order online if it's safe for her.

And about the mite treatment I don't think she can have any more since she is already on a 60-day dose and it's only been about 25 days. And I'm not sure if it even is mites or not that's causing all of these issues, all the vet said was that he found one during the skin scrape - so it could be something else entirely and hopefully the antibiotics will help. She definitely has an infection, she smells very bad and is flaking and getting sores.
 
Last edited:
So sorry if she is smelly bad - I really hope the antibiotics help. Maybe that's why the vet prescribed a broad spectrum antibiotic if there could be various different bugs going on or a nasty one.

I don't recognise that cage :-) I recognise most of them! It looks very nice with a clear base and barred top, but you're right it does look very tall. What are the dimensions width and depthwise? Usually something wider and lower is better. The usual way to avoid fall risks in a very tall cage is to either have much deeper bedding (effectively reducing the height) or to have a full level part way up the cage to reduce the height - which is very fiddly diy. To have very deep bedding you'd need bar wraps as well so the bedding didn't fall out.

Are you in the US? I forgot, sorry :-) If so a lot of people in the US use a glass tank or a bin cage, although the larger bins might not be tall enough for a Syrian. But Petco do $1 per gallon sales. A 40 gallon breeder tank is about the smallest for a Syrian really. Some people go as large as a 75 gallon tank.
 
I'm in the US, I have big clear bins that could work but I'd want to fashion some sort of top so she couldn't climb out and I'd be worried about ventilation. I think the platform that came with the cage was meant for that purpose but since it is wooden it's harder to ensure it's clean/safe.

It wouldn't be very pretty, but I could wedge a piece of cardboard in on that side to make a platform - she only climbs up that one specific corner so that could help. Then I could toss the cardboard with each cage clean and make a new one as well.

Oh, and an update she seems to actually like this antibiotic she licked it all up from the syringe so I probably won't have to take any special measures for giving it to her which is great!
 
  • Love
Reactions: Maz
That's good she likes the antibiotic :-) Maybe it doesn't taste nasty like baytril. For a bin cage, people keep the lid and cut the centre of the lid out and mesh it. Ie you just leave the rim of the lid and the rest of the top is meshed. You can apparently get 200 quart bins from Homemart (according to @ilguy). It's cutting the plastic that's the tricky bit I think. It would need to be pretty large or she'd go stir crazy. As she's only a year old, she could benefit from a cage upgrade/change and then you wouldn't need to worry about her falling.

Female Syrians are notorious for needing a lot of space.
 
That's good she likes the antibiotic :-) Maybe it doesn't taste nasty like baytril. For a bin cage, people keep the lid and cut the centre of the lid out and mesh it. Ie you just leave the rim of the lid and the rest of the top is meshed. You can apparently get 200 quart bins from Homemart (according to @ilguy). It's cutting the plastic that's the tricky bit I think. It would need to be pretty large or she'd go stir crazy. As she's only a year old, she could benefit from a cage upgrade/change and then you wouldn't need to worry about her falling.
The bridge I got her was only $10 as well so I could just replace it. If she still has mites though they could hide in there and proliferate so not sure
 
Is there anything I can do besides the antibiotics for sores on her back from scratching? A couple of them look raw and I don't want her getting a further infection but i also don't know if i can safely put anything on her. Also I'm having a hard time getting the proper dose for the antibiotic since it is gooey and sticks to the side of the syringe so it's not all coming out.

Might have to put 2x the dose in there and then squirt out half of it onto a treat for her just to make sure she's getting all of it.
 
That might be the way to do it - you can squirt the other half back into the bottle afterwards. Could you email the vet again to ask if there's anything you can put on the raw skin to help soothe? It might be something you can buy yourself. And ask if it's ok to use Thyme tea to dab it with? That is more antiseptic than soothing though but it would be difficult for anything to be soothing on sore skin. I'm surprised the vet didn't prescribe pain relief as well.
 
Yeah I'll ask the vet. I can't tell if I see mites or if her fur is just flaky and dry - the lighting is bad in this pic. IMG_1104.jpegyou can see some of the fur loss on her sides in the last pic as well. poor baby. the vet also said if the treatment is working the dead mites would come to the surface and inflammation would temporarily increase so it could be that as well but not sure.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1103.jpeg
    IMG_1103.jpeg
    96.4 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_1105.jpeg
    IMG_1105.jpeg
    98.4 KB · Views: 5
It does look like flakey sore skin and mites. You won't be able to see any mites though - they're too small to see with the naked eye - it needs a microscope!
 
Yeah, I might just call the vet tomorrow on my lunch break and ask if they have any reccomendations for her skin. Also gonna soak her cage in hot soapy water later and replace bedding again, and I'm conflicted on taking out that ledge at the top for her to climb to - since it's wooden it's harder to clean but also limits the number of falls once she gets up there - but i could also fashion a divider out of cardboard about halfway up as well instead.

i am starting to suspect something like cushing's though as she is drinking a lot more water than she has in the past. it used to take her at least a week to drink all of her little water bottle and now she's going through it in a few days
 
It doesn't really look like Cushings to me. But it's a shame you have to wait so long for the second dose of treatment. I think the Invermectin is two weekly.

If the shelf is just plain wood it should be easy enough to wash/disinfect - I've done that with plain wood items before. Spray it with white vinegar maybe, then wash it wash soapy water and leave it to dry.
 
Yeah, it is but I'm hoping these antibiotics help with her skin as well and I'll keep things clean and find ways to help her feel better in the meantime. It's just plain wood that's polished somehow but has screws in the back to hold it up there - i still will probably add a cardboard platform just because i'm worried about her immune system and additional injuries especially if she can't climb as well if she's hurting. it'd be fun for her to chew too and have something new in her environment, although i don't think she's using her new larger wheel at all. i don't know if it's because she doesn't feel good or because she's unsure about it since it's not what she's used to.

ugh just feeling guilty and wondering if i'd slacked off in the past on cleaning her cage properly/often enough or feeding her the right things, it's hard to see her like this and wondering if it's my fault

she's also squeaking when i see her which she'd never done in the past and i don't know if it's because she knows she'll get treats or because she's in pain :(

again i'm really thankful for you guys for helping me with this i just want to help my little girl feel better it's the least i can do for her now
 
Hamsters commonly get mites and it's not from lack of cleaning - stress or illness can knock their immune system and then they can proliferate - sometimes there's no clear reason as a hamster may not seem to have been stressed. So don't blame yourself for mites :-)

If she's squeaking though and she doesn't normally, I'd also be worried she was in pain. Vets usually give metacam for pain (meloxicam/loxicom) so it could be worth telling the vet you think she's in pain and getting some for her. It must be very sore. I know - the bills are adding up with all the medications but hopefully you'll get on top of this soon.
 
I'll ask them about that as well. What did you reccomend for soaking her cage in? I could probably leave the barred part and the plastic in a hot water bath with some cleaning materials for a while just to try to kill any extra mites that could be living there. I was just going to use dawn dish soap and some vinegar but I'm seeing mixed reviews on whether that will kill them. I don't want to risk any disenfectants as well that could cause her more irritation or problems :/
 
A pet safe disinfectant for small animals should be fine, if rinsed well afterwards. I'm not sure which ones are available in the US though. Vinegar "might" kill mites and mite eggs but I'm not 100% sure. I know it kills moth eggs. It needs to be something that works on mites though.

All washing up liquid does is wash things off but doesn't kill them. And some might cling on!
 
Actually F10 veterinary disinfectant is available in the Uk. You might want the "ready to use" version rather than the one that needs diluting. Just follow the instructions. As long as you rinse well afterwards it'll be fine.
 
Back
Top